6/12SN7 pre amp universal build

Home Forums Forum MTK Kit Builders 6/12SN7 pre amp universal build

Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #14170
    marchunter
    Participant

    Hi folks
    Marc is my name and I started a build of the 6SN7 pre.
    I got started with the PCBs as that is the first thing up in Jim’s video’s.
    First off I want to just state that Jim has been so helpful and encouraging along the way. The parts are beautiful, especially the boards.
    I am a novice at this but learning fast. I have built one amp so far and it is running and sounding beautiful. My soldering skills are getting pretty darn good.
    Ok, as Jim says enough blah, blah, blah.
    The PCBs went perfectly as all I had to do was follow Jim’s vid build. I did vary a little bit and built two boards at once. I found that to be pretty easy. So PCBs went together no sweat.
    I then got a little antsy and started in on then signal boards. Jim doesn’t have a video out yet so I took a look at the E80CC vid and figured it looked pretty easy also. I knew that certain parts and places would change and was prepared for that. I did mess up one thing and that might have been fortuitous. I installed the jumper in the center of the board used in the E80CC kit. It’s not used in this kit. Oops.
    But it did show that using the octal socket instead of the nine pin may (if forced down onto the board by a grizzly) come dangerously close to the pads for the jumper. I knew this because in installing the jumper the reverse side pads where the wire came through and the solder volcano was causing interference with the octal socket sitting flat. After Jim corrected me that the jumper is not used, I took it out and made sure the pads were clean and laying low. I have checked and checked mine and the octal leads are well clear of the pads. So my accident/mistake gave Jim and Charles a heads up to a “maybe” problem. Don’t be a grizzly!!!
    Today I started in on the chassis/plinth. I gave it a very lightly stained oil rub and it really brought out the grain.
    Looks beautiful.
    More to come.

    • This topic was modified 1 year, 11 months ago by Jim Lambton.
    #14171
    clambton29
    Keymaster

    Hi Marc!

    Thanks for building one of the first kits. It sounds like you’re having fun with it.

    When Jim brought the PCB issue to me it was a bit of a “duh” moment. I spent so much time trying to get the board design perfect, I hadn’t considered that the socket pins could be cutting it close to shorting on the jumpers. We’re going to provide some electrical isolation on future kits and the issue is going to be fixed on the next board revision.

    So this was great feedback and exactly the reason why we want to work with test builders first. An extra set of eyes will often see something we missed.

    More build videos coming soon (though at this point we might have to catch up to you!).

    Have fun and stay safe,
    Charles

    #14172
    marchunter
    Participant

    Thanks Charles
    Enjoying it vary much.

    #14173
    marchunter
    Participant

    Charles I am mocking up the chassis and doing prep work on the parts.
    On the two big caps on top I am assuming the prep is the same as the vid on the Yuri caps where Jim attaches a lead to each pole to be connected later. Is that correct?

    #14174
    clambton29
    Keymaster

    Hi Marc,

    Yup, you’ve got the right idea. You should be able follow most of the e80cc build and apply it to the 6or12sn7 universal kit. The capacitor mounting method is the same as on the Yuri as well. Just watch the length of your leads.

    The biggest differences are the DC in resistor to drop 7v to 6.3v and the PCB.

    Let us know if you have any more questions and we’ll help you along.

    Charles

    #14212
    marchunter
    Participant

    Work progresses along.
    I am using the E80cc build vids that I figure are universal as Charles suggested above.
    I am loving the fact that this kit is thought out so that it can be taken apart and repaired or to fix my attempts at making things better that turn out to be steps backwards. For instance yesterday I had the bright idea to make things neater by strapping together wires. One problem, the wires were separate channels. I had an inkling that this may be a boo boo so I emailed Jim and asked about it. I can just see him getting the email and putting palm to forehead and muttering something about knuckle draggers. 🙂 Anyway he graciously confirmed my suspicions that it was not a good idea.
    I have just drilled out the 30mm C4 pad to accept both the R6 resistor and the C4 capacitor. I had installed the C4 capacitor into the 18mm pad as it fit really well. One problem, the 18mm pad goes nowhere. Another mistake brought on by trying to be neat. Gotta get over that and pay more attention.

    #14214
    clambton29
    Keymaster

    That 18mm pad was another mistake on my part, but we’re going to have that fixed for the main kits. You’ve been a great help to us already. I just finished uploading up to episode 8 on the channel so hopefully that will help you along.

    Let us know if you need any more guidance in the meantime.

    #14228
    marchunter
    Participant

    Well well well, I have finished wiring my pre amp. The last thing I finished this morning was the heaters. Jim as usual was very generous with his answering my questions.
    I wired it as to what I see depicted in the schematic. Jim tells me he would wire it a bit different and I can’t wait to see it. However he told me what I did will work fine. I’m trying to follow Jim’s design closely so that he and Charles can evaluate.
    I then started to test the system and gave myself another problem right off the bat. I wasn’t getting the drop in voltage I was expecting. I only was getting .23 of a volt. This is where I figured out I’m not so smart. I was using the tubes Jim supplied with the kit. 12 volt tubes. Yes I know I’m stupid. I figured it out when I put a set of 6SN7s I have and got the perfect voltage drop then swapped the supplied to back in and again got a small drop. I then looked at them closely and saw, yes you are a moron, they are 12 volt. I write this down to keep others from doing the same thing.
    Upshot is the heater circuit works perfectly.
    I’m just waiting for a couple caps to install then I will be entirely done.
    THANK YOU JIM.

    #14254
    marchunter
    Participant

    All finished and playing music.
    Let me go back to the beginning and tell you why I bought this kit. I have a set of mono blocks that are so wonderfully transparent it’s heaven. Only problem is you can’t run more than one source. So obvi I needed a pre. I started out with only the mono’s which were fed by a digital receiver/DAC. So the signal path is very uncluttered. Once you have the need for more sources you start to cloud the signal path with “stuff”. But I needed a way to play my vinyl as well as digital. So Jim and Charles’ pre kit was my answer.
    I now have the same digital path as well as my vinyl and it’s fairly astonishing to me that I don’t hear any type of signal degradation with now a pre amp and a phono stage in line. Of course I hear the vinyl noise but that is a good thing. When I switch to the digital side I hear nothing different then what I heard before. THIS PRE AMP IS DEAD QUIET. That to me is where the rubber meets the road. On the digital side it’s the source I hear. On the vinyl side it’s the record and the recording I hear ONLY. This is a wonderful tool to evaluate recordings.
    Thanks guys for a wonderful pre. You got it right.

    #14255
    clambton29
    Keymaster

    That’s great to hear Marc!

    We like the extra set of inputs as well and think it adds some nice versatility, while saving a lot of cable swapping.

    Thanks for being one of our first test builders and helping us make these kits even better.

Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.