E80CC Build unsuccessful need troubleshooting

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  • #13886
    Jesse Curran
    Participant

    Good afternoon,

    I completed my final wiring, put in the fuses and started testing. I’m running into problems and doing troubleshooting to find out where the problem is. Tube heaters are working correctly…… B+ is tested and working correctly. Hooked up the amp to my R8 pre-in….. no sound…… Noise floor increased…… Hissing coming out of the tweeters….. my speakers are 100 DB efficient, so I really noticed the noise. Not sure about the RCA readings I was getting with my voltmeter…. I will get different numbers every time I tested with RCA cables.

    I plan on testing circuit by circuit as time allows with Work and daily obligations. I will probably walk away for a couple days to clear my head…… Just would like to know where to start and what those RCA numbers should settle down to.

    #13887
    Jim Lambton
    Keymaster

    No worries, you’ve probably made a wee mistake.
    It happens, the important thing, as you mentioned, is to logically go through the circuits and figure out what’s wrong.
    So, if no sound, other than hiss, on both channels, then we know we have a wiring and or component error.
    It will probably only take a wee bit of troubleshooting to figure it out, then glorious sound shall commence!

    CAUTION! HIGH VOLTAGE PRESENT, ALWAYS CLIP ON WITH THE AMP OFF AND THE POWER CORD DISCONNECTED, EXCERCISE EXTREME CAUTION! NOTE: YOU SHOULD DISCHARGE THE CAPACITORS BEFORE YOU WORK INSIDE YOUR UNPLUGGED AMP.

    1. Get out the schematics, flip the amp over (on a soft cotton dish towel), clip your voltmeter ground to the middle star ground.

    2. Start at the beginning and check all voltages, compare them to the schematics as you go, mark the actual voltage reading beside my readings.
    a) J2 B+ Tubes loaded s/b (should be) 230-250vdc take all measurement with no Signal IN – No RCA’s connected (so basically the pre is in idle)
    b) P6 s/b ~134vdc
    c) P8 s/b ~2.7vdc
    d) P3 s/b ~136vdc
    e) P7 s/b 0vdc
    f) P4 across P5 ~12vdc

    3. Now if any of the voltages are out significantly, then go backward through that circuit and look for your error.

    4. Resistors can be checked in circuit, just disconnect the power cord, discharge the capacitors and set the volt/ohmmeter into the ohm function, probe each end of the resistor and check the value against the schematic – check it off as you go.

    5. Capacitors can’t be checked in circuit, so just check your polarity and value.

    6. If you’ve gotten this far and all the voltages are within spec, then it is time to have a good look at the signal path. Unplug, discharge capacitors. Plug a quality RCA cord into one IN jack, turn your volume to max, set your volt ohmmeter into the ohm function, clip one lead onto the center post at the end of the RCA cord (make sure it isn’t touching the outer ground connection). Now check the path from the RCA IN center post (s/b very low resistance), next volume IN/OUT, next P7 (v.low), next any star ground s/b ~470K, you are reading through R1. Do the same thing from the RCA OUT using a RCA cord go back to P3. Last check the ground of the RCA cord to any start ground (s/b v.low). Basically you are looking for either a dead short from the signal to ground = 0 signal in or out, or a signal or ground connection that is poor or compromised. This is harder to explain than to do in reality – just take your time and look for a section of the signal circuit that’s compromised in some way – then figure out why.

    7. Note with very high efficiency speakers +95db you will normally here a very low level hiss at your tweeters – this is normal for Pure Class A amps. I test the noise floor of my Kits both electrically and with my ears. With ~93db efficient speakers, I set my preamp for normal listening volume (2 o’clock), then without touching anything else bring my ear close to the tweeter – at about 3-6″ I can start to hear hiss at a low volume – this is acceptable. With the R8 because you are essentially adding a preamp gain to a preamp gain, you will automatically double the noise floor, so at your listening position with very high efficiency speakers you will hear a very low level of hiss, this is normal.

    That’s a good first pass, if you have any questions let me know, but first dive in, within a short while you’ll start to understand what you are up to.

    And NO Worries – the Pre will start to sing soon and if all attempts to locate the problem fail, i can always take care of it on my bench.

    Focus & Luck!
    Jim

    #13889
    Jesse Curran
    Participant

    Thank you Jim for your support and words of encouragement! All of this is very new to me, especially working with electricity is scary. I purchased a electrical discharge wand and it’s just a matter of me building up my confidence and knowing what to look for. At least each portion of the kit is easy to take apart and rebuild and you have the parts in your store that are inexpensive and available. I am determined to be successful!

    Jesse

    #13890
    Jim Lambton
    Keymaster

    Yes the whole design is modular, so repairing it is a simple task.
    Troubleshooting a build is normal, the more experience you have as a builder the fewer times you’ll need to go back and find the problem.
    In this case you know you have a proven working design.
    Just take your time, make notes on the schematics so you don’t need to repeat any voltage tests.
    If you find something you aren’t sure about, put a note and a picture in the Forum.
    It’ll help future builders.
    Cheers,
    Jim
    PS get into a regular habit of following the same safety precautions, that will increase your comfort and safety.

    #13897
    Jesse Curran
    Participant

    Good afternoon,

    I’m pretty sure my B+ power test has failed. Unstable numbers, if I get any numbers at all…… looks like I get maybe up to 240 V and then it slowly starts to decline…… Using the discharge tool, The voltage didn’t drop instantly either. I have a colleague at work Who is a electrician, perhaps he can confirm my findings on Monday. Where do I go from here if the first voltage test fails…… I tested both sides, Same thing.

    Jesse

    #13898
    Jim Lambton
    Keymaster

    So to confirm the basic operation of the power supply, disconnect the B+ from the preamp boards.
    Now check the power supply board junction out voltage, your B+ should be ~315vdc and steady on both power supplies.
    If that checks out, next will be to remove both tubes.
    connect ONE B+ to preamp board and see if the voltage stays steady at ~315vdc.
    If yes, connect up the other preamp board and check voltage.
    If all good (probably), plug only one tube in and check for B+ ~240vdc, should be steady – after a wee bit.
    unplug that tube and move it over and check the other channel.
    By now you should see the logical approach to isolating the problem(s).
    Let us know how this portion of the troubleshooting went.
    Cheers,
    Jim

    #13964
    Jesse Curran
    Participant

    Good afternoon once again,

    I’m back from a weeks vacation and ready to start reworking the preamp. I completed my power test today. The problem I’m having is the fuse inside the IEC inlet is blown… Failed test. I put in my spare fuse and conducted the power test, I’m getting power through the cord into the back of the IEC inlet, Also 119 V to the fuse, no power to the transformer( Orange and pink wires) To the back plugged into the IEC inlet. No power to the B+….Took my spare fuse out and tested …….the spare fuse blew as well. I also tested the tube heater…… Tubes light up and I’m getting voltage to the tubes. I’m also getting very low ohm resistance from the RCA in side. Tested the diodes and resistors…… Those are testing Within specs.

    Suggestions?

    I could purchase new wires and try again?

    My power transformer positive side barely has enough room to be connected to the IEC inlet…. Looks like I would need to extend those wires if I redo all the wiring.

    Thoughts?

    Jesse

    #13965
    Jim Lambton
    Keymaster

    Welcome back Jesse!
    Q. When you tested your B+ did you follow my instructions and disconnect the B+ from each power supply board to the Preamp boards?

    If your transformer is wired correctly, you shouldn’t need to rewire it. Go over the wiring and make sure the connections are correct. If in doubt send some high res pictures of the connections and i’ll verify for you.

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